Dear Beta Guy,
Hi. Yeah it's me. The quiet guy in the bouldering room who doesn't speak Chinese but looks like he should. But that's not the only reason I'm quiet or why I don't ask you for beta on a certain problem. Contrary to the usual look of frustration on my face when I'm at the gym, I enjoy the problem solving nature of climbing; figuring out different ways that to move up, down, or across some fake rock. I know you regularly crush V100 problems and the V0.5 I'm struggling with is what you eat for breakfast. When you're hungover. And blindfolded. But none of that matters because this isn't a team sport. I probably wouldn't be on your team anyways because I climb like I'm wearing boxing gloves and water skis.
I get the same way sometimes so I understand where its coming from. Once I get my problem wired, I want to share it with everyone. "Look! I can climb this smoothly and efficiently. Want me to help you?!" But when you're on the receiving end of the "help," it starts to look like "showing off" at a certain point. I'm making an effort to cut the beta/spray out of my routine when I climb with friends. Now I don't know, nor do I care to know all the appropriate etiquette for climbing at the gym. I know it's crowded sometimes and for sure, you can climb whatever you damn well please. Who am I to say otherwise? Its just that sometimes it'd be nice if you didn't warm up in front of me on the same exact problem you've been watching me struggle on for the last 15 minutes. MMMkay? Thannnks.